COMBAT
- or - That's it. I can't take it anymore. I gotta kill somethin' ! 
 
Training and Sparring:
Before you begin training, you need a basic understanding of how skill points are earned. First of all, each day (real time) your set maximum number of possible skill points is set at 50. To check how many skill points you've earned today type skills. This will list all your skills, their ranks and how many unspent skill points you currently have in each skill set. At the bottom of the list will be shown how many total skill points you have earned, from all your skill sets, during the current training day. Below this will be shown the time remaining until the next training day starts.
Skill points will be earned at a high rate for each successful action at the beginning of each training day, but will gradually begin to diminish. If you perform a specific actions (gladius swat for example) a number of times that day it will beginning to earn less and less skill points for each successful use. Combat against certain types of opponents (such as rats, osecars, angry gulls, etc.) will also diminish over time.You will probably find that your skill point gain has fallen to .01 or .02, no matter what you do, before to reach your 50 point daily maximum. I, myself, rarely train beyond 30 or 40 points on a given day before throwing in the towel and going off to have some fun in town.
To best maximize your skill point gain during a given training day, I recommend following these steps.
1) Wear yourself out (hunt until fatigued) at one hunting ground or training activity at a time. Example: hunt the sewers first, rest in the baths, then hunt the signal tower island, rest again, then spar with a friend, rest, etc. Personally, I always start my day (with a new character) on Signaltower island, then rest, then train on a practice dummy, rest, hit the sewers, and finally, if I want to train anymore or test my style, I spar with a friend or two.
2) Learn three to five moves with your weapon as soon as possible. As skill point gain diminishes the more you use a specific attack, learn more than one and alternate between them with each new opponent or animal. Example: club swat your target, then club strike, then smash, then crush, then repeat.
3) Hunt a variety of animals and opponents. Don't just hunt one type of critter, go after every type available in the hunting ground you are in. If you are sparring, don't wear yourself out on one person. If you are going to wear yourself out sparring, trying doing so with two or three different opponents.
4) Easier attacks hit more often. Remember that you will hit more often with easy moves, such as staves swat, than your harder moves. As such, by the time you go for your second or third training sessions you will probably find that each successful "swat" is earning a lot less skill points than your harder moves are. If you have a decent rate of success with your harder moves, say about 30% to 40% success, try focusing more on them before quitting for the day.

Skill points and training dummies.
Very important. Read before you use the practice dummies as part of your initial training
.
Training dummies effect your skill point expenditures in a peculiar way. Learn too many manuveurs or gain too many ranks in your weapons or other fighting skills and the skill point gain from training dummies to fall to practically nothing for you. This can effect you in several ways:
1) You cannot have a total of 10 ranks in your primary weapon and still earn a normal amount of skill points with a training dummy. This means that, for example, you can have your basic staves at rank 5 and four manuveurs at rank 1 (total = 9) and still earn skill points normally from a training dummy. If, however, you were to learn one more manuveur or learn one more rank in basics or one more rank in any of your manuveurs you would have a total of 10 ranks in your primary weapon. At that point you would no longer be able to earn any more than 0.01 skill points per successful hit on a training dummy.
2) If you learn a second weapon the conditions in the first point apply to it as well. Furthermore, if you earn 10 or more total ranks in either weapon skill, your skill point yield from dummie drops to near nothing for both (or, for that matter, any) weapons. For example: You can have staves basic to rank 5 with two manuveurs at rank 2 each (total = 9) as well as knives at basic rank 4 with five manuveurs at rank 1 each (total = 9) and still earn skill points from dummies as usual.
3) If you learn either Armed Combat Manuveurs or Shields (or even both), you can raise your basic rank and all the manuveurs you like up to rank 10 without suffering the skill point drop on dummies for your weapon(s). For example: You can have ACM's basic at rank 10 or less and any number of the ACM manuveurs at rank 10 or less and still work the dummy as usual. If any basic ACM or Shields rank or any ACM or Shields manuvuers rises higher than 10, your skill point gain from training dummies will drop to the 0.0 - 0.01 range.
4) You can use your skill points from your primary, or any other weapon skill, to learn ACM's or Shields. If you are using practice dummies as part of your initial training, take advantage of this. Train up to 9 total ranks in your weapon, then learn ACM's and/or Shields (as well as any and all of their manuveurs you like) to rank 10 before advancing any further in your weapon. Use whatever skill points you gain in your weapon to learn your ACM or Shields manuveurs.


Training with practice dummies vs. The signal tower island critters
Your success rate: You chance to hit a practice dummy's is much higher (probably around 30-40%) compared to signaltower island creatures (typically around 5%). Since any successful hit pays you an amount of skill points based solely on 1) how many skill points you've earned so far today, 2) how many times today you've used that particular attack and 3) how many times you've successfully attacked that particular critter, it doesn't matter how easy or hard hitting that target was. Therefore, it's obviously easier to get skill points from a signal tower critter than from a practice dummy. (Note: this is just my opinion. The rate of skill point gain is supposed to be effected by how hard your target is to hit, but I have never seen any difference in gain from harder or easier targets. If this is correct, then the amount of influence the difficulty of a target has on skill point gain is probably negligable).
Differing success rates: It should be noted, however, that your success rate with a practice dummy can change, depending on how many people are engaged with it (approached within attack range). A practice dummy can support up to three people approaching it, but other players with long weapons (quarterstaves and spears) can attack it without approaching. And for every combatent besides yourself working on that dummy everyone gets a +20% bonus to your success rate. So, as other player characters come and go, you'll find your success rate flucuating wildly. Remember that you can manipulate your success rate by changing combat postures (berserk, aggressive, defensive, etc.) and by using any manuvears you may have learned (for example, the gladius manuveur "stab" has a higher success rate than the normal "attack").
Pros and Cons: Dummies are easier to find, they don't move or get tired and run away. Also, they don't die. Critters, however, have to actually be found, can get tired and attempt to run off and have a tendency to croak if you whack 'em enough times. Dummies are harder to hit than most critters you hunt as a newbie, and thus you can wear yourself out and not get as many skill points as you would from hunting easier to hit critters (you don't get skill points for missing, but you get just as tired from swinging a miss as you do a hit). Critters are more difficult to fight, but give you a little more skill points because they are easier to hit (not to mention income from their pelts, feathers, shells, etc.)
Personally, I like using a dummy at first as one of my training sessions. Once I get enough different attacks (three or four), I usually abandon the dummy and stick with the signal tower island, sewers and sparring.
(Note I: The normal attack for any weapon (i.e. "attack:") is very hard to hit with. Before going to a hunting ground, I recommend using the practice dummy to at least earn enough skill points to earn one or two manuveurs.)
(Note II: Signal tower island takes a while to get to and from, due to the ferry that runs between it and the city. As such, pay attention to your health. Especially run back to town and find a healer immediately if you suffer any kind of bleeding wound.)


Hunting and Armor:
The first thing you'll need to know about hunting is where to hunt. The "Directions" section of this site lists some of the easier hunting grounds where you will spend your first few "weeks" in Iridine. The next thing you need is armor and a quality weapon. The "Money" section should cover where to get the coin for these items. If you don't want to spend the extra time to earn the money for a higher quality weapon, that's good. You can use the one you start the game with, it just isn't as likely to cause as much damage as a higher quality weapon can. Less damage is good at first, though, because it means you get in more whacks (due to less damage) per critter. Later, though, when you get tired of whacking unconscious critters over and over, you might want the option of doing more damage per hit.
All this aside, the one and only top priority for you now is armor. You gotta have armor. Below I have listed three sets of armor that you should chose from, listed from least expensive (and less protecting) to most expensive (and best protection). All of these sets can be rather expensive, however, and some players may decide to skip certain pieces altogether. Still, if you have to patience to scavenge and save every sen, then I strongly recommend eventually getting all of Armor set #3.

Armor set # 1:
Leather tunic (Venina's)
Leather breeches (Venina's)
Glove (Venina's)
Belt (Venina's)
Leather helmet (Harach's)
Heavy hobnailed soldier's boots (Waike's)
Stiff leather pteryges (Harach's)
Leather arming jerkin (Waike's)
Leather shoulder pterygyes (Harach's)
Leather cuirass (Harach's)
or Padded armor (Harach's)
Sagum

Armor set # 2:
Leather tunic (Venina's)
Leather breeches (Venina's)
Glove (Venina's)
Belt (Venina's)
Leather helmet (Harach's)
Heavy hobnailed soldier's boots (Waike's)
Stiff leather pteryges (Harach's)
Leather arming jerkin (Waike's)
Leather shoulder pterygyes (Harach's)
Leather cuirass (Harach's)
or Padded armor (Harach's)
Left bronze greave (Harach's)
Right bronze greave (Harach's)
Phylax (Waike's)
Armillus (Harach's)
Sagum

Armor set # 3:
Leather tunic (Venina's)
Leather breeches (Venina's)
Glove (Venina's)
Belt (Venina's)
Bronze helmet or Bronze visored helmet (Harach's)
Heavy hobnailed soldier's boots (Waike's)
Stiff leather pteryges (Harach's)
Leather shoulder pterygyes (Harach's)
Left bronze greave (Harach's)
Right bronze greave (Harach's)
Left greave (Harach's) *
Right greave (Harach's)*
Phylax (Waike's)

Mail cuirass* or Muscle cuirass* or Lorica hamata (Harach's)
Armillus (Harach's)
Sagum

Note I: Cuirasses do not cover the thighs. If you purchase a cuirass over a lorica, you should get left and right greaves (in addition to the bronze greaves) to cover these areas. I highly recommend the Lorica Hamata out of these three choices)
Note II: The Vetallun Armory offers many of theses items at greatly reduced prices. You can count on the Vet Armory to sell it cheaper than either Waikes or Harach's, though the quality tends to be less.
Thanks to Aescapes for the correction to Armor set #3 and on the side note above. Thanks to Keelee (Fancan) for suggesting adding the sagum to armor lists.)


Combat, a how-to:
When you first enter your chosen hunting area (probably the sewers) go ahead and find your first kill. Simply wander around the hunting ground area until you bump into something and get ready, whatever it is will probably be as ready to fight as you are. When you have a rat or osecar in your sights use the following commands to engage in combat (remember to watch your red line, this is the amount of damage you have taken. Remember that it sometimes takes a few minutes to find a healer and for them to stop the bleeding. Give yourself time to be healed before you bleed to death.)
*To engage a target: Approach <target>   Ex: Approach osecar
(This is probably not necessary unless you are just eager. Most animal will approach you if you give them a second.)
*To attack a target Attack <target>   Ex: Attack osecar.
Before you can fight, however, you must be wielding your weapon. If you are not already wielding then type : Wield <your weapon>. To stop wielding your weapon you can type Unwield <your weapon> or simply put it in one of your containers (this will unwield automatically).
Also keep in mind that some weapons require two hands to wield (such as spears and staves). You will have to drop torch or drop lantern before you can attack <target>. Remember to get your torch/lantern when you leave the area.
*Once you are engaging a target just keep attacking until they do one of two things:
 1) Get worn out and attempt to retreat. In this case stop attacking and wait until the moment they fully retreat. Then quickly approach again and attack again. Then wait until they retreat fully before doing it again. Do this because if you attack just before they retreat fully, they may get away and leave the area before you are allowed to attack again.
 2) Fall unconscious. Just keep attacking until they breath their last breath. Then put away your weapon, get your knife or dagger and start skinnin'. If you know the ACM manuveur killing blow, then you can use the kill <creature> command to end their misery a little quicker. If you are not planning on skinning the critter, then just whack it one or two more times (to insure it croaks soon) and leave it. You don't get any skill points for attacks against unconscious opponents.

*If your opponent should get the better of you, you can disengage with the retreat command. You can use the command string retreat <direction> to escape to an adjacent area and avoid your opponent re-engaging you before you get away (example: retreat west). Then run and find yourself a healer.
 
 
   



Combat Postures:

In TEC there are five combat postures; berserk, aggressive, normal, wary and defensive. You will begin the game in the normal combat posture and will remain in that posture unless you change it. Each posture effects how easy a target you present to your opponent and how easy it is for you to hit your target.

Berserk                            All offense, no defensive capability.
Aggressive                       Mostly offensive, little defensive capability.
Normal                            Equal attention to offense and defense.
Wary                               Mostly defense, little offensive capability.
Defensive                         All defense, no offensive capability
To change combat postures simply type the name of the posture you want and you will change to that combat posture. Be aware, however, that this will take a moment - usually about as long as it takes to strike an opponent.
Later, when you develop defensive skills ("blocks") your combat posture will more dramatically effect how well these blocks perform. Defensive postures will increase the effectiveness of defensive skills, offensive postures will decrease, or even nullify, defensive skills.
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Factors that effect your success rate Lighting - Lighting strongly effects your ability to hit in combat. If you are unsure of whether there is enough light to make an artificial light source unnecessary use the lighting command to get a vague idea of how much light is available. A lantern has the same effect as two torches (i.e. maximum lighting). If you have opted not to utilized the more expensive lantern then dropping an extra burning torch (or having a friend along with his/her own torch) might make all the difference in allowing you to see well enough to hit with all your skill. A lantern adds -20% to hit, each torch adds -10% to hit, in darkness. The maximum being -20% in regardless of what combination of light sources you use.
Hunting groups - Each animal or human you hunt is limited to three opponents approaching them at one time. That means that only three people can approach any one target at one time. But another person, in addition to yourself, gives you (and them) a -20% bonus to hit. Meaning that if you have a friend with you, and both of you are attacking the same target, you each get a -20% bonus to hit!  A Total of three combatents, including yourself, gives you a -30% bonus. Furthermore, some longer weapons can land hits on a target without approaching it. Staves and spears for examples. If you have friends along with one of these weapons, they can attack without approaching, making it possible to have more than three characters attacking one target. However, because they are not approached, they do not give any bonus to everyone else's success rates. Still, this makes most creatures huntable by a small group of newbies. Consider that a group of brand-spankin'-newbies can waltz into the Dumps and hold their own, splitting the proceeds from rat and hound pelts between them, so long as they all approach and attack the same target.


* Thanks to Antaeus for this sub-section!
* Thanks to Drexus Creshiando for corrections to this sub-section!